|
Post by ZX6-Chris on May 5, 2015 8:17:52 GMT
Hi Everyone,
A lad at work has an SV650,. he is new round here and drove his back home from London, he has said the bike ran fine with no problems,. but when he went to go out on it a couple of weekends ago the battery was dead nothing coming from it.
I went round and had a look all electrics looked fine,. and we got it jumped of the car and ran it for 10 mins.
He has spoke to me this morning, when he went out this yesterday he was on his way to whitby after his bike started first time, and the distance from Redcar to Loftus his bike lost all power. then started reading he was doing 190MPh instead of his actual speed.
he then pulled over and bike wouldn't start again.
luckily he managed to get the bike started by bumping it down a hill.
has anyone seen or heard of a problem like this before?
Thanks in advance
|
|
muzzasv
Superbike Rider
Traction control? This is my traction control mate!
Posts: 4,910
|
Post by muzzasv on May 5, 2015 13:50:13 GMT
reg/rec, TL done it before and r1 is currently doing it
|
|
SP1 Mike
Teesside Biker
Don't have it tied in knots before the corner
Posts: 44
|
Post by SP1 Mike on May 5, 2015 17:02:37 GMT
As muzzasv said reg/rec......have a look at the battery it as they swell up on the sides. I would of thought it will be shot as well if the reg has gone.
|
|
Simondo
Superbike Rider
Posts: 4,305
|
Post by Simondo on May 5, 2015 19:37:03 GMT
Aye its best to replace both at the same time cos the knackered battery might ruin the new reg rec and then you need another one.. I made that mistake with my honda
|
|
|
Post by ZX6-Chris on May 6, 2015 7:54:17 GMT
will let him know,. i had battery up in the office other day to charge on the optimizer and it didn't look swollen anywhere, although it certainly wasn't holding charge,. over a period of 4 hours it went from 15V (which i thought was a little high) to 11V.
That was with no load on it apart from voltmeter
|
|
|
Post by regnarts on May 6, 2015 11:43:07 GMT
Not sure if i'm correct here, but I wouldn't jump lead a bike with a car battery cars are 24 volts and most bikes are 12 volts, would that not fry the rec/reg many years ago I was lazy and connected a battery charger direct to the bike battery without diconecting it from the bike first (Not an optimiser) 6 miles down the road lost all electrics and the battery was practically round in shape had to replace rec/reg and battery
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 6, 2015 11:52:47 GMT
Ahh bridge rectifiers, that takes me back. Ac to Dc and voltage smoothing, S&B tech. college ( Mr Wild ? teacher and his hydrolastic suspension on his car we used to get him side tracked on for an easy lesson).
|
|
|
Post by ZX6-Chris on May 6, 2015 12:47:28 GMT
Not sure if i'm correct here, but I wouldn't jump lead a bike with a car battery cars are 24 volts and most bikes are 12 volts, would that not fry the rec/reg many years ago I was lazy and connected a battery charger direct to the bike battery without diconecting it from the bike first (Not an optimiser) 6 miles down the road lost all electrics and the battery was practically round in shape had to replace rec/reg and battery i believe cars are 12V aswell or the cars i have had previously were :S got me worried now haha
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 6, 2015 13:22:57 GMT
Not sure if i'm correct here, but I wouldn't jump lead a bike with a car battery cars are 24 volts and most bikes are 12 volts, would that not fry the rec/reg many years ago I was lazy and connected a battery charger direct to the bike battery without diconecting it from the bike first (Not an optimiser) 6 miles down the road lost all electrics and the battery was practically round in shape had to replace rec/reg and battery i believe cars are 12V aswell or the cars i have had previously were :S got me worried now haha Motorcycles in the old days used to be 6 volt but cars have nearly always been 12 volt that is probably where you got this idea from. Cars and bikes are nearly all 12 volt now, just check before you use your battery charger and that it is set at the right voltage for your particular battery, if it is dual voltage. Cars used to be either positive and negative earth also but this was usually due to the bodies of positive earth cars being non conductive i.e. fibre glass. Metal bodied cars were negative earth as they are now.
|
|
muzzasv
Superbike Rider
Traction control? This is my traction control mate!
Posts: 4,910
|
Post by muzzasv on May 6, 2015 13:32:53 GMT
cars are almost always 12v the only thing i have ever come across tat runs on 24v is large plant equipment
|
|
|
Post by regnarts on May 6, 2015 17:06:25 GMT
I stand corrected, we live and learn each day, so is it ok to jump start a bike from a car then, just for future reference
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 6, 2015 17:53:17 GMT
Make sure you don't have the donor car engine running
|
|
|
Post by Milky C on May 6, 2015 20:44:18 GMT
will let him know,. i had battery up in the office other day to charge on the optimizer and it didn't look swollen anywhere, although it certainly wasn't holding charge,. over a period of 4 hours it went from 15V (which i thought was a little high) to 11V. That was with no load on it apart from voltmeter 15v would indicate a knackered reg/rec as its overcharging and not regulating properly if i understand it
|
|
|
Post by regnarts on May 6, 2015 21:10:53 GMT
Cheers for that Bowman Think I understand it now dont run the donor car as the amps can do the damage
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 6, 2015 23:43:46 GMT
will let him know,. i had battery up in the office other day to charge on the optimizer and it didn't look swollen anywhere, although it certainly wasn't holding charge,. over a period of 4 hours it went from 15V (which i thought was a little high) to 11V. That was with no load on it apart from voltmeter 15v would indicate a knackered reg/rec as its overcharging and not regulating properly if i understand it I once had an old sunbeam stilletto car and it seemed that the battery was u/s, so without checking anything else I got a new one and fitted it. I put it on the car and drove about two miles and the battery exploded. The whole top of the battery blew to bits and battery acid was everywhere. Although the battery was near the exhaust on that model, it was not the main cause of the hydrogen explosion failure. I consulted my brother who is and was an auto electrician and he diagnosed the fault as a voltage regulator that was putting out too much voltage. In those days the voltage regulators were seperate units to the then dynamos ( they are now within alternator bodies along with the rectifier that is needed on an alternator to turn ac into dc electrickery.) If I can remember rightly it was putting out more than 15 volts and boiling the battery by overcharging it. With a special tool he wound down the voltage regulator adjuster on the voltage regulator and fitted a new battery and the problem was solved. I had to wash out the engine compartment also, to neutralise the battery acid that had exploded everywhere. This is a good reason why batteries should not be charged in your house overnight. The old battery never exploded because being old the acid was defunct and did not give off hardly any hydrogen when it was overcharging.
|
|
nigec
Teesside Biker
Posts: 20
|
Post by nigec on May 7, 2015 9:06:32 GMT
Its been a while since I was an auto electrician but here we go! Charge the battery 24 hours and then let it stand for 12 hours if you don't have means to test it correctly, stick it on the bike get a volt meter with the ignition off you should get around 12.5 volts.. maybe a little more turn the ignition on it should maintain 12.5v ish crank it over it should not drop below 9v.. if it does the battery is screwed Assuming the engine starts you should get 14.5 volts.. maybe 14 depending on the bikes age at say 2000 to 3000 revs Rev it harder and keep it constant and make sure it the voltage stays fairly constant, if it shots up dramatically or drops off check connections etc If OK try with the lights on, depending if the lights are stock the charge rate should be no less than 13.5, 13 is the bare limit after that you would be on the edge really
NOW older Suzuki's only charged full output with the lights on, one phase went through the light switch, one would hope a modern one wouldn't do that as they used to fry the rectifier and alternator (I know!)
Jump starting, there's a lot of old wifes tails, usually its shear bad luck when it goes wrong, ie if the vehicle is totally dead because of a dead short (diesels are prone to this) jump starting it will fry it The common one is batteries exploding, specially if a few cells are down or due to over charging, trust me you can smell it.. never ever look over a battery connecting jump leads
|
|