Post by chaindrive on Jan 22, 2012 13:29:24 GMT
Well Parmo's wheels are ready, they have been powder coated and what a nice job as well, they were done by one of our site sponsors teessidebikers.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=specialdiscountsforteesside&action=display&thread=1718 The next thing to do was fit the bearing back in and the studs
The first thing to do is clean up all the bits with brake cleaning fluid as we don't want dirt and grit in the clean housings. The bearings were put into the freezer to cool them down and shrink them a little. As with any new or newly coated parts, the last thing you do is put them down on a hard surface that can damage them, I have a large rubber mat for this purpose along with lots of towelling rags.
The first thing to do is rub a little bit of grease into the hub to help with inserting the bearing and then gently heat the hub with a heat gun, not a flame. The heat gun if set on a medium setting will supply enough heat without burning the coating
The bearing is then removed from the freezer and placed into the housing and lightly tapped in, it is then drifted in using a piece of pipe of the correct diameter.
The bearing is finally driven home by using a large pin drift, note the hammer used is not a large engineers hammer but a nylon faced hammer so that if it slips, little damage will be done.
Next to be installed is the dust seal, smear a little grease onto the edge to help it to slide into place and gently tap it home with the hammer, keeping the seal square at all times, it will bottom out on the bearing.
The wheel is turned over and the spacer tube is inserted into the hub. Although the bearings are sealed units and do not require grease, it is good practice to put hight temperature bearing grease into the hub to protect the parts and to keep the dust seals lubricated. The bearing and seal are then inserted.
The same procedure is used for the rear wheel with the exception that there may be a circlip to hold the bearing in place. The circlip must sit firmly into the grooved recess prior to the dust seal being fitted, once again a little grease helps with this.
The bearing for the cushion drive for the rear wheel is fitted exactly the same as the other bearings and then it can be secured in a vice for the studs to be fitted. This is achieved with the use of good soft and clean rags to cover the jaws of the vice.
The studs have a liquid thread lock applied prior to inserting and tightening down, taking care not to over tighten them as they are going into alluminium which is considerably softer than the stud.
The tool required for fitting the studs is not unlike a bolt with the exception that it has a ball bearing in the head that is held in place by a socket screw. The stud tightens up to the ball bearing and to release the tool, the socket screw is slackened off thus releasing the stud, the tool can then be unscrewed off the stud.
As a compromise if the tool is not available then 2 nuts tightened together onto the stud will do the same job, using this method can damage threads and under no circumstances should mole grips or the like be used as these do damage threads.
The first thing to do is clean up all the bits with brake cleaning fluid as we don't want dirt and grit in the clean housings. The bearings were put into the freezer to cool them down and shrink them a little. As with any new or newly coated parts, the last thing you do is put them down on a hard surface that can damage them, I have a large rubber mat for this purpose along with lots of towelling rags.
The first thing to do is rub a little bit of grease into the hub to help with inserting the bearing and then gently heat the hub with a heat gun, not a flame. The heat gun if set on a medium setting will supply enough heat without burning the coating
Parmo heating the bearing housing, would help if he concentrated
The bearing is then removed from the freezer and placed into the housing and lightly tapped in, it is then drifted in using a piece of pipe of the correct diameter.
This was undertaken by my assistant Mr Morphius
The bearing is finally driven home by using a large pin drift, note the hammer used is not a large engineers hammer but a nylon faced hammer so that if it slips, little damage will be done.
I trusted Morph to do this as well
Next to be installed is the dust seal, smear a little grease onto the edge to help it to slide into place and gently tap it home with the hammer, keeping the seal square at all times, it will bottom out on the bearing.
The seal in place and a good view of the rubber mat
The wheel is turned over and the spacer tube is inserted into the hub. Although the bearings are sealed units and do not require grease, it is good practice to put hight temperature bearing grease into the hub to protect the parts and to keep the dust seals lubricated. The bearing and seal are then inserted.
The distance tube being inserted, note the grease.
The same procedure is used for the rear wheel with the exception that there may be a circlip to hold the bearing in place. The circlip must sit firmly into the grooved recess prior to the dust seal being fitted, once again a little grease helps with this.
The large circlip in place
The bearing for the cushion drive for the rear wheel is fitted exactly the same as the other bearings and then it can be secured in a vice for the studs to be fitted. This is achieved with the use of good soft and clean rags to cover the jaws of the vice.
Towelling cloths holding the cushion drive
The studs have a liquid thread lock applied prior to inserting and tightening down, taking care not to over tighten them as they are going into alluminium which is considerably softer than the stud.
The liquid thread lock, do not apply to much, as only a little is needed.
The tool required for fitting the studs is not unlike a bolt with the exception that it has a ball bearing in the head that is held in place by a socket screw. The stud tightens up to the ball bearing and to release the tool, the socket screw is slackened off thus releasing the stud, the tool can then be unscrewed off the stud.
A 10mm stud insertion tool.
The stud installer being removed off a stud
As a compromise if the tool is not available then 2 nuts tightened together onto the stud will do the same job, using this method can damage threads and under no circumstances should mole grips or the like be used as these do damage threads.
2 Nuts together for removing or inserting studs
All that is left now is to clean up and have a well earned cup of tea. Now where did I leave those chocolate biscuits???