Post by Lee on Mar 12, 2009 16:20:13 GMT
Yes, some may scoff at this thread, but I have had more than one mate whine that gear changes have become clunky or false neutrals are appearing between gears (between fifth and sixth is commonest)
All signs that the chain requires attention.
Heres how to do it.
First of all, lift the bike onto its center stand/paddock stand and loosen the rear spindle
Next its time to locate the tightest part of the chain, I normally do this by looking between the chain and the lowest edge of the swingarm and then slowly turning the rear wheel
On this photo I have placed a pointer to show the line that you should be looking down.
You will notice that on the first photo there is more daylight between the chain and swing arm than there is on the second photo
Now we have located the tightest part of the chain, we can mark the chain with a bit of chalk or by marking the six o clock position of the rear wheel.
Next job is to alter the adjusting nuts either side of the rear wheel.
Some bikes have markers to align the wheel. I personally dont trust em.
Swingarms should be straight, the adjusting bolts should also be straight and of equal length. The first time I adjust a bikes chain I remove the adjuster bolts, check they are the same length, then re-fit them and turn them all the way in so that the chain is slacker than an MFI wardrobe. Next I begin the tensioning counting the turns (sequentially) on both sides until the desired tension is achieved(left one half a turn, right one half a turn and so on)
All signs that the chain requires attention.
Heres how to do it.
First of all, lift the bike onto its center stand/paddock stand and loosen the rear spindle
Next its time to locate the tightest part of the chain, I normally do this by looking between the chain and the lowest edge of the swingarm and then slowly turning the rear wheel
On this photo I have placed a pointer to show the line that you should be looking down.
You will notice that on the first photo there is more daylight between the chain and swing arm than there is on the second photo
Now we have located the tightest part of the chain, we can mark the chain with a bit of chalk or by marking the six o clock position of the rear wheel.
Next job is to alter the adjusting nuts either side of the rear wheel.
Some bikes have markers to align the wheel. I personally dont trust em.
Swingarms should be straight, the adjusting bolts should also be straight and of equal length. The first time I adjust a bikes chain I remove the adjuster bolts, check they are the same length, then re-fit them and turn them all the way in so that the chain is slacker than an MFI wardrobe. Next I begin the tensioning counting the turns (sequentially) on both sides until the desired tension is achieved(left one half a turn, right one half a turn and so on)