How To - Carry out a standard service

[Lee]

Many people think that servicing is a complicated matter that involves expensive labour and parts fees.

In reality though, its a simple task that almost anyone can carry out with the simplest of tools.

If you own a socket set, a plug spanner, a few screw drivers, an old washing up bowl, odds are, its a job you can do yourself.

The machine being serviced is a 1999 Fireblade, which, along with the CBR600 is arguably the benchmark for most modern sportsbikes (despite having carbs)

This service can easily be adapted to suit many of todays bikes.


Normally I only replace the spark plugs every other year on account of the relatively short UK season and subsequent bike use.
Air filters too can be simply blown out with an air line if there is only a small amount of crud in there.

As this is the first "proper" service since buying this machine (and given the obvious lack of maintenance by the last owner) it would make perfect sense to edge on the side of caution and carry out a more intensive service this year)
The costs.
oil £15
oil filter £10
plugs £20
air filter £20
Totalling £65

Alternatively budget between £250-£300 if you wish to pay someone else to do it!

Currently there are no knocking or ticking noises coming from the engine, I will therefore consider valve clearances to be within the set tolerences.

Suspension is firm and silent therefore the suspension bearings will be inspected/greased/replaced at the next service.
(Probably around at Robin's house




Do your homework on the interweb though before starting and make sure you obtain the right plugs/oil/filters etc for your own specific model

Certain tools can make the job easier
a oil filter wrench (though its possible to puncture the side with a screwdriver and use this as a lever to undo them)

A paddock stand in the case of machines that only have a side stand (but an assistant would suffice)

In addition to the photographed items, I will be using some car engine oil/general purpose grease to lubricate all pivots and cables.

Brakes/fluid, Lights, tyres and exhaust will also be inspected for wear, level, operation, damage, rust and security of mounting.
These are purely visual checks with perhaps the odd tug here and there to make sure nothing is hanging off..

Once this is completed the main part of the service will commence, changing the oil, oil filter, air filter and spark plugs.

[Lee]

Here we go then, the machine is placed in paddock stand for ease, side panels are removed


Reaching underneath the tank, all pipes are disconnected and the fuel tank and seat are removed revealing the air box

[Lee]

The phillips screws are removed from the top of the airbox. The lid and filter are then lifted away in one movement, revealing the top of the carbs. On the underside of the airbox base are small clamps that fit around the top of the carbs..these are loosened and the air box base is also lifted away.


Next the bolts holding the two coils in place are removed, this is done so that the coils can be moved aside allowing access to the top of the engine...the supressor caps and spark plugs. If spade connectors have to be removed from the coils to aid movement, be sure to put a spot of paint on them so that you reconnect them correctly!
Note also the rag placed over the top of the carbs..to prevent anything unwanted falling in!

[Lee]

The FireBlade has an airscoop that feeds the airbox (ramair system) like most sports bikes. This channeling scoop has to be removed also to give proper access to the top of the engine. This is the trickiest part of the operation. There is not a lot of room here for clumsy hands, rubber flaps that protect against water ingress have to be manouvered into and out of position also

[Lee]

The supressor cap is removed from the top of one spark plug and the spanner is lowered carefully over the top of the plug. using either a wobbly extension bar or a knuckle joint the plug is then loosened with a ratched spanner and removed.


Once the plug has been removed it should be inspected for condition before replacement. Mine were shot and required renewal. The new plug is inserted carefully, tightened to "finger tight" and then tightened fully using a torque wrench. If you do not have a torque wrench the accepted alternative is "finger tight and a quarter turn"
DO EACH PLUG SEPERATELY TO AVOID GETTING THE HT LEADS MIXED UP!!!

[Lee]

Once all the plugs are done, refit the air scoop, the rubber water protectors and tidy any pipes/cables away neatly. Here the choke cable and assembly are treat to a spot of lubrication in the form of engine oil


The top of the carbs are then smeared with a little copper slip before easing on the lower half of the aribox..this is then nipped onto each of the carb uppers (underneath the airbox) and screwed back down into position

[Lee]

Of course both sides of the airbox are given a good clean out before the new air filter is fitted and it is re-assembled


Here a comparison is made between the new and old filters



Once the air box is refitted and all hoses are attached, the coils are refitted and the tank/seat is put back on.
Rubber fuel pipes are re-fitted to the tank, overflow pipes are squared away neatly and the side panels are re-fitted.

The hard work is now done, now the bike is ready for the oil and oil filter change.

[Lee]

The bike is placed upon a paddock/centerstand and the drain plug is located. The plug is loosened and a bowl is placed under it swiftly as soon as the oil starts to run out





Whilst the sump plug is out, its a good idea to clean the threads up on it along with the filler plug


The location of the oil filter is established, for the ease of photography the middle panel was removed however, it is not normally a requirement.

[Lee]

Using a socket set and filter strap, loosen the filter


Then loosen further and remove by hand. its a good idea to have plenty of rags underneath the bike as theres likely to be some oil spillage.




Once oil has stopped running out, the new filter has a small amount of fresh oil smeared on the rubber seal and is offered into position
*update, some people like to fill the new oil filter with fresh oil before fitting. Ive tried this and find it a messy affair, more often than not I spill most of the oil before the filter is fitted so subsequently I dont bother now.

[Lee]

The new oil filter is fitted and tightened using a torque wrench, typically they are fitted at around 7 foot pound, so its debateable whether a torque wrench is actually needed, "hand tight" is often the accepted norm.



once this is fitted the bike is placed on its side stand so that the last remainding drops of the old oil can run out


This can take five or ten minutes...a perfect opportunity to impersonate a police officer ;-)



Once your happy all the old oil is out, re-fit the sump plug and torque it up to the required level. A new brass washer should be fitted to the sump plug before re-fitting. (mine didn't get one though)

[Lee]

You can just keep topping up and checking, but I like to use a measuring jug so that I can see exactly how much oil is going in.


Then in it goes, until you have put in the correct amount specified in the handbook/sourced from the web etc



Once its all in, screw back on the filler plug and run the bike up for ten mins




Allow the bike to cool overnight and using the window/dipstick the following morning, check the oil level before starting and whilst the bike is upright. Top up to the upper level as required

On this bike, the oil level is measured with the bike upright, so I need an assistant to hold the bike by the grabrail/mirrors on its centre of balance whilst I check the oil level and top up as required.

Job done

[EXtra MILe]

Good job Lee! Very useful for a lot of people.

[bradaz]

Really helpful info cheers

[Lee]

Updated, The bike has also had a recent valve clearance check, this was done by 2WS. Given the low annual mileage this bike is now doing, its unlikely to see a dealers for the next 5 years

[gipsykev]

id like to do a brake blead for this thread , if anyone wants a free brake fluid change [which should also be done every couple of years due to the fluid becoming contaminated and breaking down] get in touch, ill do the job and you take the snaps, right we have a victim i mean volenteer for the brake fluid change ,its not as hard as you may thing and the kit required to do it can be bought on fleabay for under a tenner ! watch this space guys

[brianp]

good stuff Lee!

[Lee]

Bumped for spike

[dunk]

i do all my own work on bikes and cars could never afford garage prices

[Lee]

Bumped for Evel