Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2015 19:34:09 GMT
Its my '06 Daytona 995i .... Just taken it out for its first proper run. Did about 35-40 miles at a fair pace, then my instrument panel started to flicker and then it died. Shortly after so did the bike.
On checking the fuses, the main 30amp fuse in the underseat fuse box looked melted and had popped.
Swapped it for a fresh 30amp fuse and then limped the bike back 2 miles to home. Looking at the fuse now it's starting to melt again. The fuse holder is hot as is the main wire to the R/R.
Battery shows 12.75v with everything off and 13.65v when running (Stable from tickover to 9000rpm). On the ride back I had pulled the fuses for the headlights so I could start it, and the R/R looks like it's recently been changed.
Any chance anyone has any pointers to start tracing the problem ?
|
|
|
|
Post by Lee on Jul 16, 2015 11:43:26 GMT
check all wiring that comes close to the frame, in particular near the headstock. Have you had any fairings off recently? its possible that you may have nipped a wire against the frame and caused a short.
You can try removing other fuses/disconnecting harness blocks, to see if this stops the main fuse from blowing... this may help you identify the circuit at fault.
All it takes is something as simple as an insecure battery or insecure positive battery lead or a chafed positive battery lead.
If it touches any part of the frame, it will blow the main fuse.
Other common main fuse failures include, chafed headlight/taillight wires touching the frame and chafed/loose positive cable to the starter motor.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2015 17:02:49 GMT
Doubt its a short as its actually not blowing the fuse just heating it up so it melts .... Bike fairings are off now and im in the process of cleaning and checking all the connections for a loose or corroded one. This is gonna be a ball ache and a half !!!
|
|
|
|
Post by knuckles on Jul 16, 2015 19:20:58 GMT
Could be the regulator- rectifier causing the problem, worth having it checked.
Geoff
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2015 21:21:47 GMT
Checked that already ... It's pumping out the required 13.8v steady across the rev range. Stator checks out Ok as does the battery with a healthy 12.9v.
|
|
nigec
Teesside Biker
Posts: 20 
|
Post by nigec on Jul 18, 2015 9:06:26 GMT
cooling fan seized/tight maybe, that's the only real heavy "natural" drain really that could melt fuses over a period of time
|
|
Hitman
Superbike Rider
Posts: 1,268
|
Post by Hitman on Jul 18, 2015 13:48:57 GMT
I would do as Lee says remove other fuses and see which one when added back cause the main fuse to heat up. The main fuse will sometimes not immediately blow as fuse wire heats up and blows at over current due to heat, a small drain to earth can cause this and can be a swine to find. If the fuse holder has been heated it can deteriorate and blow quicker each time due. A bad main connection will also increase current.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2015 15:39:56 GMT
Found the problem ....
Unbolted the main fuse holder and under it it's beginning to corrode where the terminals go into the bottom of the actual fuses - Probably due to water / moisture ingress.
The fuse has been building up major resistance because of it, therefore heating up and melting.
Cleaned the other terminals, bypassed the ruined 30amp circuit with an inline fuse and bingo.
Thanks all for guidance !! ... Unbolt, check and waterproof fuse holder is going to be added to my 6 monthly service jobs from now on.
|
|
