Winter Jobs

[Simondo]

The Firestorm just needs a chain and sprocket set and oil and filter change and it's good for another year..

The ZZR on the other hand, I've fitted a new set of handlebars as the cheaper ones I had on looked a bit naff, I'm going to wire in a digital speedo and mount that at some point to clean up the front end, I've got a ZZR1200 rear shock to fit as an upgrade to the tired old 600 one, an aluminium rear subframe off a ZX6R B1H and all the plastics that go with it, and I need to find the source of an air leak that's causing the bike to hold it's revs for a bit instead of dropping straight to idle, as well as tuning out a flat spot in the mid range, but that will be early next year when I can get out and ride it. It could also do with a new set of tyres and I might fit the forks off a ZX6R of similar vintage as they're a straight swap and will offer some adjustability, or I could put that one off til next year and go all out with some gold USD forks off a ZX7R or something, and a new exhaust system to put it back to a twin sided exhaust as that would look sweet..

[David]

Nov 28, 2016 9:28:07 GMT Simondo said:

I need to find the source of an air leak that's causing the bike to hold it's revs for a bit instead of dropping straight to idle.

Is it a lean mixture that causes this problem.

[Simondo]

Nov 28, 2016 11:16:01 GMT David said:

Nov 28, 2016 9:28:07 GMT Simondo said:

I need to find the source of an air leak that's causing the bike to hold it's revs for a bit instead of dropping straight to idle.

Is it a lean mixture that causes this problem.

Which is often caused by an air leak.. I'll be exploring this option first

[David]

Is the opposite true of a rich mixture, the engine revs drop below idle before picking up again.

[Simondo]

I'm not sure how an over rich running condition affects engine idle. But it's recommended if you have a hanging idle to look for an air leak, spraying WD40 around the inlet rubbers between the carbs and the engine should cause the revs to increase, if this doesn't happen then I'll be checking my vacuum pipes are all connected properly and not allowing air in there..

[David]

Nov 28, 2016 12:41:10 GMT Simondo said:

I'm not sure how an over rich running condition affects engine idle.

When I was having problems with Bob's bike only idling on 3 cylinders, WG analysis identified that no.3 cylinder was too rich & not firing.

The pilot air screw was adjusted accordingly & the job was a good one.

[Simondo]

I set all of the pilot screws and needle jets according to the manual, it does however have a replacement exhaust system, it fires on all cylinders through the revs as well as idle, I had problems with that last year but I got it running after taking the carbs off and on a few times and cleaning and re cleaning. I'll probably do the same again this year.

[David]

This seems to confirm the lean v's rich idle adjustment.

Lean Symptoms:
Rough, erratic idle that drifts toward higher rpms than expected based on the setting of the idle screw.
Sometimes a lean condition will cause a “hanging” idle that is slow to settle down to set idle speed.

Rich Symptoms:
Idle that tends toward lower rpms than expected based on the setting of the idle screw .
Easily settles to idle, but has tendency to dip below set idle speed then recover, sometimes stalls.

[David]

Initially in 2012, with Bob's bike, the carbs. were cleaned & pilot air screws set to factory settings, this did not solve the problem.

At the end of the day, IMO, WG analysis is the way to go, not forgetting balancing the carbs. too.

On Bob's bike, there is a sample point on each cylinder header pipe, before the 4 into 2 collector box & twin (non-standard) exhausts.

The pilot air screws were adjusted as necessary, no two were the same.

In 2016, after 4 years, for some unknown reason no.3 cylinder wasn't firing again at idle, low & behold, after WG analysis/adjustment it was fixed again, was too rich.

The operation/adjustment of the carbs. is a service item every 2,000 miles.

[kamas]

Rode mine on Monday
on Tuesday,
on Wednesday
on Thursday
on Friday
on Saturday rode again to test my new gloves in cold weather,
on Sunday rode to test new gloves in rain

If you not sure what to do with your bike read above

[Lee]

I did an oil and filter change on the aprillia last week.
Perculiar stuff. The bike has to be ridden before you can measure it properly

[Wheelnut]

Nov 29, 2016 19:47:46 GMT Lee said:

I did an oil and filter change on the aprillia last week.
Perculiar stuff. The bike has to be ridden before you can measure it properly

The XT is like that - the oil is stored in the frame and that's where the dipstick (the bike's dipstick, not me) measures it.

[David]

It's always baffled me, why can't motorcycle manufacturers come up with an accurate method of checking the engine oil level whilst the engine is cold, for example, after it has been stood overnight.

Picture this, get the bike out, check the oil level, start the engine & ride off, seems straight forward enough.

[titus]

Nov 29, 2016 19:47:46 GMT Lee said:

I did an oil and filter change on the aprillia last week.
Perculiar stuff. The bike has to be ridden before you can measure it properly

My Blade is the same Soapy 🙈

[David]

After doing an oil & filter change, I normally fill the oil level to the top of the sight glass.
Start the engine & let it idle until the oil pressure has built up & the oil filter is full of oil.
Stop the engine, let the oil level settle & top up as necessary.

What reason(s) do Aprilia & Honda give for actually having to ride the bike.

[Bigred]

"It's always baffled me, why can't motorcycle manufacturers come up with an accurate method of checking the engine oil level whilst the engine is cold, for example, after it has been stood overnight.

Picture this, get the bike out, check the oil level, start the engine & ride off, seems straight forward enough".

Read more: teessidebikers.proboards.com/post/250361/edit#ixzz4RcQKST9J


This is an easy one. Adjust your oil level as per the manufactureres instructions. Check the oil level again after the bike has been stood some time and cooled (overnight). Check the level again before restarting the engine. This will tell you where the level shood be when the engine is cold and has not been run for a while. Put a little metal marker on the sight glass or a nick in the dipstick for reference. For obvious reasons, check there is not a pool of oil under your bike before doing this ;-)

The above does not apply at oil changes due to the possibility of air being in the system when you refill. Hence you have to run the motor for a while to expel the air and then recheck.

[David]

Good point Bigred, thanks for your reply.

A simple solution, why didn't the manufacturers think of it.

[ZX6-Chris]

well my winter maintance will start next week and have to be done be the 5th,. i ride my bike all year unless weather is too dangerous.

i need to check a slight leak in my front forks and maybe get this done for its MOT

I found that both front and rear suspension had been maxed out so will need to set this to standard and then adjust from there to suit my needs.

Hopefully also get some ACF 50 on the bike.with the wheels off.

[David]

Dec 15, 2016 14:50:16 GMT ZX6-Chris said:

I found that both front and rear suspension had been maxed out so will need to set this to standard and then adjust from there to suit my needs.

Chris, are you doing the adjustments yourself, if so, will be interesting to hear how you get on with it.

[ZX6-Chris]

Dec 15, 2016 14:59:17 GMT David said:

Dec 15, 2016 14:50:16 GMT ZX6-Chris said:

I found that both front and rear suspension had been maxed out so will need to set this to standard and then adjust from there to suit my needs.

Chris, are you doing the adjustments yourself, if so, will be interesting to hear how you get on with it.

Suspension adjustment will certainly be carried out at home with the assistance of either my cousin or my partner. i have C spanner for rear suspension and for front, basic tools are needed (Spanner & flat headed screw driver).