BOB's Bike's Back for some TLC.

[clogge]

nice one David! is the battery ok now too?

[David]

Nov 7, 2011 20:13:45 GMT @clogge said:

nice one David! is the battery OK now too?

Yes, I think it's fine thank you.

Now that the bike is MOT'd, I'm going to have a monkey around with a few things.

Will keep you posted.

[David]

Although the bike clearly passed the requirements of an MOT brake efficiency test, I would like to improve the feel of the front brake.

Starting from first principles, the discs have been cleaned using brake cleaner and blue roll, they were dirty/greasy.

The pads were removed and found to be slightly glazed/dirty. Using some glass paper on a flat steel surface, they were roughened and cleaned, now looking like new.

Will see if this makes any difference on the next test ride before considering any further action.

[David]

To feel more confident in, and improve starting reliability, more TLC.

Electrical terminals were cleaned using emery paper and treated with ACF50 on, earth/negative lead from battery to engine casing, positive strap from battery to starter solenoid, and lead from starter solenoid to starter motor.

There is a definite improvement, an audible "Click" can be heard from the starter solenoid, and the bike easily starts.

[David]

Again, although the rear brake passed the MOT efficiency test, it was pulsing/snatching, but obviously well within the prescribed limits.

The silencers and rear wheel were removed for further investigations. The brake shoes were found not to be chamfered on the leading edges which was probably the cause of the problem. This was easily rectified by creating a chamfered edge with a file. The brake drum was also cleaned of brake dust.

Whilst access was made easy, the final drive housing was given some TLC. It had previously been painted, the paint was removed and the housing polished. It's not perfect, but I'm quiet pleased with the result using the tools etc. at my disposal.

The silencers and clamps were put back together using copper slip and ACF50, hopefully this will make them easier to remove in the future.

Further ACF50 was applied to those hard to reach areas whilst the silencers and wheel were removed.

[Andy]

Engineering flowchart

[Cafe Racer]

Nov 9, 2011 18:37:10 GMT Andy said:

Engineering flowchart

Well that's quite easy to follow, i will print it off in case i forget !

[David]

Been back to BIG DOG's, and Garry kindly checked the brakes again on the MOT brake tester.

Following remedial work the rear drum brake has now stopped pulsing/snatching, job done.

Both front and rear brakes still comply to MOT testing standards.

[David]

Clarkes Motorcycles, supplied me with the bike from new, they have serviced and help me to maintain the bike over the years.

David has ordered a new oil filter and O rings, the bike will be due an oil & filter change after another 200 miles @ 31,000 miles.

The service intervals are every 2,000 miles, the oil & filter change intervals have been reduced to 1,000 miles by myself due to the time taken to cover that mileage.

[David]

Whilst at Clarkes Motorcycles, David had a look at the front brakes. He suggested that replacing the 30 year old, original brake hoses may improve the feeling of the front brake.

Obviously the brake fluid (9 years old), would be changed at the same time, this in itself may improve matters.

Have asked for a price to supply and fit the new hoses.

[David]

BOB's Bike successfully completed a 125 mile test ride today.

[morphius]

Its a smart machine David, just get those studs sorted ....

[David]

Nov 13, 2011 18:12:42 GMT @morphius said:

Its a smart machine David, just get those studs sorted ....

[David]

The exhaust system was fully removed to carryout remedial work.

The outside stud, (nearest the frame tube), on No.2 cylinder was missing. These studs are an M6 thread x 50mm long.

This will be the second stud I have had to replace. The previous one, (outside on No.1 cylinder), was replaced with an M7 bolt with the head cut off to make a stud. I seem to remember just using the bolt to make it's own thread, (steel into alloy), and opening out the hole in the exhaust pipe retainer.

On this occasion, I decided to try and save the M6 thread in the cylinder head as the first option. Went to Hawk Fasteners and got an M6 x 50mm long bolt and nut. (As a back-up, also got an M7 x 50mm long bolt and nut.)

Called in at Cromwell Tools (behind Wicks on Portrack), and was greeted by TB's member Mark who works in the store. Mark could not have been anymore helpful, I would thoroughly recommend Mark and Cromwell Tools to anyone. You may even get a TB's discount, I couldn't believe what I came away with for the price.

Now to the repair, using an M6 plug tap to get to the bottom of the 20mm deep hole in the cylinder head for the stud, the damaged thread was re-tapped and felt/looked in good condition. The head was cut off the bolt to make a stud, Loctite was applied to both the hole and stud, then this was screwed into the head until it felt it had bottomed out and was secure.

The repair will be left overnight before carrying out any further work.

[David]

Whilst the exhaust system is off, took advantage and cleaned the areas not easily accessible with the system in place. Namely the front of the motor and the frame down tubes/cross member above the oil filter housing.

The latter frame parts were quite badly corroded in places.



Set to with a wire brush and removed any loose powder coating. Two coats of Hammerite Smoothrite later and now the frame tubes have some protection. Not a pretty job but at least it's done.

It is 20 years since the frame was powder coated. The damaged area is vulnerable from stone chips etc. thrown up from the front wheel. If I ever get around to re-doing the frame etc., or when I get the mudguard repaired/painted, I will fit a fender extender.

[David]

BOB's Bike is fitted with two horns.

On Sunday they didn't seem to be working effectively, not loud enough, thought this may have been due to dampness.

Took the horns off and cleaned the terminals on the horns and the spade wiring connectors too. Both items were slightly corroded, thus reducing electrical contact, ACF50 applied to prevent further corrosion and keep water out.

Job done, two working loud horns.

[David]

Engine oil & filter plus final gear oil changed today, (31,000 miles).

Just checked my service record book, the bike has done 855 miles in four and a half years, and 125 of those miles were done last Sunday.

That's an average of 162 miles per year, (excluding Sunday).

[David]

Happy to have BOB's Bike up and running again after being unavailable for the last four days.

Today's job was to re-instate the exhaust system. I decided to separate the 4 front exhaust pipes from the collector box, the silencers were already removed. The idea behind this was two fold, easier to put the system back on the bike and if the repaired stud failed, may only have to remove one or two front pipes.

Between the front pipes and the collector box, there are annular seals, 3 out of the 4 separated satisfactorily, the 4th was destroyed in the process. Oh dear, what am I going to do, off to Clarkes to see David. Although he didn't have the correct replacement seal, an alternative was available FOC.

(Have ordered new replacement seals, together with the ones for the cylinder head, you can't run a bike without an exhaust system).

Everything put back together with copious amounts of copper slip grease to aid future removal. The bike was fired up and all OK. The repaired stud looks and feels good. Ran the bike up to temperature, will let it cool overnight and check all nuts and bolts again.

Then hopefully off for a test ride.

[David]

All exhaust nuts and bolts checked as secure, now for the test ride.

[David]

Had a successful 40 mile ride out today, nothing fell off, so hopefully that's the job done.